Garth left a gaping hole in the world of nature conservation that is difficult to fill. CSN’s expert guides have nonetheless taken on his community-based tourism efforts with aplomb. Boas Hambo, their main expedition guide, worked closely with Garth and well-known conservationist Russell Vinjevold for many years. Boas started his career in community conservation and has become an expert in his own right; he helped train many of the conservancy rhino rangers. Having grown up in the Kunene, Boas speaks all the local languages and navigates the rocky roads with consummate ease. His close connections with the people and the land are evident as he takes his guests to places that few other guides even know about. His expert translation allows you to talk to people and opens up a world you would never otherwise know exists.

While each CSN safari is tailored according to up-to-date knowledge of wildlife movements and the guests’ specific requests, the expedition would not be complete without a few nights at CSN’s iconic Etaambura Lodge. Made from local stone, canvas and thatch, the lodge and five en suite chalets are perched on a mountaintop that boasts stunning 360-degree views of the mountainous desert landscape.

The mountains in the Kunene are known for their unique plant species, and Etaambura’s location is no different. Since the lodge was built to make the minimum possible impact on the environment, these beautiful plants are still thriving along the pathways between the chalets and the main lodge. Each chalet and its private deck is situated to make the most of the views while fitting around the natural rocky outcrops.

Having heard about Etaambura from Garth but being unable to visit during my few years working in the region, I decided to make it a priority stopover when guiding some friends through the Kunene in 2015. It did not disappoint! After several days of driving – including some challenging 4×4 tracks – we were only too glad to rest for a few nights and absorb the views and absolute stillness of Etaambura. For guests who are used to light-polluted cities, the starry nights are simply astonishing.

One of the unique features of both CSN and Etaambura is their relationship with the ovaHimba. The staff are friends and family of the people living in the area, resulting in a guest experience with these famously ochre-red people that goes beyond a few posed photos.

During a recent trip to Etaambura with Margie, we met some of the people living in the small villages below the lodge. They welcomed us as friends-of-friends, rather than strangers from distant places. Our guide Henry introduced us to his mother and sister, who still choose to dress and live traditionally. They were only too happy for us to walk around their traditional village and take photos. Guests who want to spend more time with these enchanting people are welcome to book a traditional dinner with an ovaHimba family, or enjoy such a meal at the lodge, expertly prepared by Henry or by lodge manager Kakuu, a Himba woman who spent two years living in England. Her fire baked bread is unforgettable!